REVIEW: Cafe Ink at Edinburgh Printmakers undergoes 'amazing makeover' - but looks aren't everything

Cafe Ink, Edinburgh Printmakers, Dundee Street, 0131-557 2479Cafe Ink, Edinburgh Printmakers, Dundee Street, 0131-557 2479
Cafe Ink, Edinburgh Printmakers, Dundee Street, 0131-557 2479

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I don’t know anyone who’s had a facelift. However, I imagine that a Simon Cowell/Jocelyn Wildenstein-esque transformation comes as a shock.

This now beautiful restored building – once the North British Rubber Company headquarters – has had an £11 million nip and tuck, but it’s been a very protracted makeover.

I cycle past every day and have seen dust sheets, scaffolding, lorries and the installation of their first exhibit, The Politics of Heritage vs. the Heritage of Politics by Thomas Kilpper.

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It took forever, so there was no big reveal for me. However, I hadn’t seen their new cafe, run by Heritage Portfolio, who also look after the grub at the Scottish Galleries of Modern Art, Scottish National Portrait Gallery, Hopetoun House and the Signet Library.

Cafe Ink, Edinburgh Printmakers, Dundee Street, 0131-557 2479Cafe Ink, Edinburgh Printmakers, Dundee Street, 0131-557 2479
Cafe Ink, Edinburgh Printmakers, Dundee Street, 0131-557 2479
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This impressive space is at the back, with floor to ceiling windows that look onto a courtyard and garden. Exciting, especially as there isn’t that much else in Fountainbridge, apart from Loudons, Hula and my other new discovery, Urban Grow (93 per cent houseplants, 7 per cent tasty delicacies).

We sat at Cafe Ink’s biggest table, which is made from an upcycled door sandwiched in glass.

The menu sounds trendier than Heritage Portfolio’s other venues. Perhaps they hope to attract a younger clientele than the grey-haired cheese scone crew (of which I am a proud member) that inhabit the other gallery cafes.

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Anyway, onto those scones (£3). They were the bomb – bright orange, craggy, herby and salty.

“Best ever,” said mum, spreading her half with butter. As the grand high priestess of this genre, her praise bestows earth-shattering kudos.

I was slightly later to my savoury scone addiction and would say these examples were in my top five, alongside the ones from Edinburgh cafe Love Crumbs and The Old Pier Tearoom in Arran.