As with every year at this time, the bars and restaurants are doing a roaring trade – though owners will most likely be aware that once everyone goes home there may be some quiet months ahead as everyone struggles to cope with the effects of the credit crunch.

With that in mind, some of them will be paying particular attention to the current and upcoming culinary trends in order to stay ahead of the pack.

Luckily, most of the younger chefs in the industry see themselves as cool, switched-on types and will be keeping track of the menus in the top London and New York eateries, as well as having a few innovative ideas of their own.

Being fit and looking good is always going to be cool and at the moment the food buzz-words are organic and health. With environmental issues increasingly to the fore, sustainability can be added to the list. Several Edinburgh restaurants such as Iglu and Urban Angel have sprung up recently with these themes as mission statements and have instantly become cool spots to eat.

What goes around comes around and, in plain fashion terms, culinary retro is definitely in this year. The gastropub, for a few years a cool London phenomenon, has finally taken hold north of the Border, concentrating on food rather than drink sales.

Pork bangers or fish and chips washed down with a pint of heavy is now more along the lines of lamb, chickpea and merguez sausages with smoked cheddar mash or deep-fried organic cod with hand-cut chips and homevmade ketchup accompanied by a nicely chilled chardonnay or a full-bodied rioja.

Revived British classics such as shepherd's pie sit happily alongside more up-to -date and healthier innovations such as scallops wrapped in pancetta. Cheaper fish varieties like hake, ling and coley are back in vogue and can often be found on gastropub menus. The same goes for cuts of meat such as belly of pork or skirt steak – with no loss in taste.

It's obviously a sign of the times when value for money in food is seen as being cool.

At a time when budgets are being squeezed and when we all need to do our bit to save the planet, culinary cool means affordable, well-cooked and ethically-conscious food that everyone can enjoy without seeming stuffy or pretentious.

• Andy McGregor is head chef and owner of Blonde Restaurant, 75 St Leonards St, 0131-668 2917


Recipes

Grilled fillet of fresh coley, smoked cheddar and chive mash, green beans, mussel and saffron sauce (serves 4)
Ingredients
4 fillets fresh coley (around 200g each)

500g Maris Piper potatoes, peeled
1 tablespoon chopped chives
50g butter
1 teaspoon English mustard
50g smoked cheddar, grated
100g green beans, trimmed and blanched
Salt and ground black pepper
1 lemon, quartered, for garnish

For the sauce
1 onion, diced
50g butter
100ml vegetable or fish stock
2 tablespoons dry white wine
250ml double/whipping cream
8–10 strands saffron
15–20 fresh mussels
Salt and ground black pepper

Method
Boil the potatoes in salted water until cooked then drain thoroughly.

Place in a bowl and mash with the butter, mustard, smoked cheddar and chives. Season and keep warm.

Place the onion, butter and wine in a saucepan and put on a medium heat for 2–3 minutes until butter is melted and the wine has reduced a little.

Add the stock and cream and bring through the boil then allow to simmer.

Steam open the mussels, remove from their shells and add to the sauce. Once the sauce begins to thicken, add the saffron strands, season and simmer for a further 2 minutes then remove from the heat and keep warm.

Season the fish then grill for 2–3 mins on each side. Warm the green beans.

Arrange the mash, beans and fish on a plate then surround with the sauce.

Chocolate and banana bread and butter pudding (serves 6–8)
Ingredients

100g butter, softened
15 slices white bread (crusts cut off)
2 ripe bananas
50 caster sugar
100g Demerara sugar
75g dark chocolate, grated
700ml milk
4 eggs
1 vanilla pod, split

Method
Pre-heat the oven to 180ºC.

Puree the bananas with the caster sugar and set aside.

Lightly grease a high-sided baking tray. Butter the bread then place one layer on the bottom of the tray. Sprinkle with some of the Demerara sugar, chocolate and then spread with some of the pureed banana. Repeat with the extra layers until the ingredients are used up.

Whisk the eggs and milk together then place in a bowl over a pot of simmering water. Add the vanilla pod and whisk gently until mixture begins to thicken. Remove the pod and pour over the bread.

Leave to stand for 30 minutes then place in the oven for 45 minutes–1 hour, until pudding is set and the top is golden brown. Serve with custard or pouring cream.